Yorkshire: Day 1

A last minute decision led us to book a train to York and drive around the Yorkshire Wolds & Moors. We planned an ambitious schedule which included a lot of English Heritage sites that we hoped to visit before our membership ran out.

A 7:47am train on Saturday morning was standing room only so we stood for the 2 hour ride. Two hours later we picked up our rental car and were off to the deserted Wharram Percy Medieval village. The drive to the site was through the Wolds and Intertwined with the Wolds National Way. We couldn't help but stop and take some self indulgent photos of the barley fields rimmed with poppy. The continuing drive highlighted some beautiful moments of the wolds landscape. Wharram Percy, perched on a sloping dale, was abandoned in the 15th century so what all remains are foundation outlines and lumps in the thick emerald grass of unearthed foundations. Church ruins still stand and the churchyard has burials as recent as the 19th century. Not far north of Wharram Percy was Pickering and the ruins of its namesake castle.

Not a terrible lot to see at the ruins but there still stands a motte allowing views across the Pickering landscape. A hidden steam train announced its presence in the valley and the adagio chug of its engine dwindled as it progressed up the sloping valley. As we always do-we lunched at a pub in Pickering town center, the Black Swan. We forgot a picture! Oh well.

We then trucked over to Scarborough, on the North Sea, for our last visit of the day. Beckie could not stop singing "Scarborough Fair." The castle ruins, go figure, dominates a huge outcropping who stands tall above old and new Scarborough. The outcropping and castle grounds have been occupied for 3000 years and saw major war activity during the English Civil War. The castles keep was of course destroyed during the siege and the rest of the site fell into neglect during the Georgian, Victorian and Edwardian eras. During WWI German battleships shelled the town of Scarborough for 15 minutes, then left. Ok. Oddly enough, we parked in a church graveyard (to see Scarborough Castle) and to our surprise Ann Bronte's grave was there. Yes, they allow visitors to park in a graveyard. Scarborough Fair dates back to a Medieval fayre that is still honored with modern seasonal fairs. However, there were none going on and no stories of unrequited love so we left for a return drive through National Forest.

We stayed at a pub inn outside of Helmsley and when we arrived there was a wedding reception in full swing. The owner showed us to our "Family room" and it was revealed to be a motor home. I can count my experiences with motorhomes on two fingers and they aren't exactly stellar. However, this was to quite a high standard and if this was in a hotel room it would be considered quite nice. Phew. However, the food was excellent and the drinks superb; and on the plate some parley, rosemary and thyme.

YORKSHIRE 2011

Yorkshire: Day 2


After waking up to a horse whinnying behind the wall adjacent to our bed, we made our way from our caravan 'room' and in the pub for breakfast. We enjoyed another full English, pulled our things together, and began our drive to Rievaulx Abbey. Along the way, we encountered cyclists from a triathalon, random ruins which couldn't be identified, a grand manor house we didn't bother to enter, and a geocache or two.


We opted for an audio tour at the Abbey thinking we could listen to the history as we walked through in an effort to save time. We still ended up spending more time than we intended, but learned some interesting points:

- Rievaulx Abbey was established as a Cistercian monastary in 1132
- Established on 12 acres and grew to 1100 acres
- At one time house 800 monks, but only 22 were left when Henry VIII dissolved it in 1538


It was a beautiful day, so we were able to capture a fair few amazing photos. I'm sure none could compare to what the Abbey once was. As we walked out of the Abbey, Matt had noticed signs for a national trail enterance, so we set off down the road to find it. Though we walked for quite some time following loads of other trail walkers, we had no luck. We went back to the car and carried on. We were on a rather tight schedule.


Oh wait, was that a sign for a 13th century pub? I know we're trying to make a deadline, but this pub is 13th century. We usually only get to the 15th century pubs. Unfortunately, we couldn't find it within 2.5 miles of the signage, so we decided to turn around and head back to our original destination of Helmsley Castle.


We raced back to the market town of Helmsley (not to be confused with Helms Deep, though we did often refer to it as such). Again, we opted for the audio tour at Helmsley Castle. We both agreed that this tour must have been a record learning experience based on square feet and historical significance. What's that? There's additional info about Robert de Roos? Nope, no time. Better press on. Oh, but there was plenty of time for extra scoops of ice cream in the town centre!


One last bite of cookies and cream and it was off to the petrol station before it closes and then to take the car straight back to York. Good news! The petrol station didn't close for another 3 hours. I know! We can go back to Rievaulx and pick up that mini-syrup jug I saw in the shop... and find that bloody 13th century pub!


Well, we found it. Unfortunately, we were just about an hour too late. The Hare Inn was closed. Disappointed and slightly hungry, we slinked back to the petrol station and then to York to hopefully find some food before our train. Well, a pasty would suffice and since the train was overbooked again, we had to endure the entire ride in First Class. So horrible.