Friday, 23 April 2010
Saint George’s Day
Next stop on the saint celebrations is George. Again, not much prepatory hubbub around this day either, it’s not like New Jersey where if it was a Jewish holiday everyone was bound to be off. I was in the city and found myself drawn towards music emanating from around a corner. It turns out it was a top floor flat flying a dozen flags of St. George’s cross and blasting royal processional music. There were 2 pubs on the corner with most of the patrons on the street yelling along to the songs. If I only knew the words. There were a few random guys strolling around in chain mail, helmets, swords and wearing St. George’s cross tunics. I left the area with the music still blasting and the pub goers still signing along. Neat.
Tower Hill (again) & Marathon
Ever since we got our royal palace passes we intended to go back to Tower Hill. We did so on the twenty-third. We alighted at the Tower Hill station to find we were near mile 23 of the London Marathon! Needless to say, it was very busy but a really great atmosphere. We found a spot along the route near the base of Tower Hill and watched the runners. What made it great was the majority of spectators energetically encouraging the runners as they pass. A fair amount of the runners were in costumes for various charities, for instance some were in Rhino suits for “Save the Rhino.” So spectators would call out “Go Rhino go rhino!” A legionnaire ran by with a laundry machine on his back; and a Yeoman Warder came out to clap. We made our way into the tower just to see a new armor exhibit and take a walk along the southern wall. 6pm came along pretty fast so we made our way out of the Tower and walked two miles down the Thames to Westminster. There were still a few pained Marathon stragglers making their way to the finish line near Buckingham Palace. Unfortunately, there were relegated to the Thames Path because the main roads were now reopened. Just another tourist like day for us augmented by a lovely surprise!
Wednesday, 14 April 2010
Canals & Religion
We hopped on an early coach after a wonderful full English breakfast and thirty minutes later arrived Canterbury. Our first stop was St. Augustine’s Abbey, (just outside city walls) founded in 597 under King Ethelbert by Saint Augustine. The site itself, like most abbeys, is demolished down to the flint core. Despite that there is tons of history; early Kentish kings were buried here and their gravestones remain. It was a drizzly, cold day to walk around the grounds but it made for few visitors. The grounds weren’t large but the splendor of the old abbey wasn’t lost. It was easy to tell how large the abbey became by the 10th century and one could only imagine the money they were pulling in. Obviously, the abbey was partially dismantled under King Henry VIII with all major stone going to other works and valuables being sold off, lost, or destroyed. The body of Saint Augustine himself was held there since his death with his coffin readily on display the whole time. Since the dissolution his body has gone missing.
In the early afternoon we made our way into the town, which still has traces of the medieval wall surrounding it. We took our time and walked through the narrow streets and took in the medieval surroundings. We decided not to go into the cathedral, but rather to explore more of the town and quickly hit a few pubs. The cathedral was walled and outside the main entrance was a tiny square where all the French tourists hung out. Plus, there were two milkshake shops in the vicinity; the shakes sucked. We realized there were small canals running throughout and slightly under the city but we just missed the last canal boat tour so we opted to explore the north gate area.
As with all medieval cities the north part of the old city had a gate that was expanded through the centuries and amazingly cars still drive through it. The gatehouse served as accommodations for guests and prisoners. It was time for tea so went to a small teahouse on the other side of town near the cathedral. The building itself must’ve been centuries old, easily Tudors. We sat upstairs and realized the building was leaning heavily to one side, so we leaned the opposite way. The rooms however were easy on the eye decoration wise and brightly colored. The waitress huff and puffed up the stairs to serve the tea, which had dust all over the service set! We laughed at it, wiped it off and enjoyed the experience. Another stop in a pub and a quick peak into the Canterbury Pottery to buy our obligatory tea set piece and we had less than an hour before our coach left for London.
It was about this time a metallic smelling fog rolled into the city. It was about 6pm so we figured the fog was natural and the smell of odd house fireplaces going. The cathedral was open to the public now so we stepped inside the grounds to take a look at the exterior of the building. The bells were going off for a while so I tried to record them; too many talking people around though. On the coach ride home we noticed the fog was all over the countryside and the sunset was a deep red, like a forest fire sunset in Los Angeles. Turns out it might have been smoke from the Icelandic volcano turning the sunset deep crimson.
It’s great to have these cheap yet culture-filled experiences, this is the main reason we came here. We’re very lucky to have the opportunity to do so. I never really guessed we’d be able to do something like this and actually manage a living.
Here are the same craptacular photos.
In the early afternoon we made our way into the town, which still has traces of the medieval wall surrounding it. We took our time and walked through the narrow streets and took in the medieval surroundings. We decided not to go into the cathedral, but rather to explore more of the town and quickly hit a few pubs. The cathedral was walled and outside the main entrance was a tiny square where all the French tourists hung out. Plus, there were two milkshake shops in the vicinity; the shakes sucked. We realized there were small canals running throughout and slightly under the city but we just missed the last canal boat tour so we opted to explore the north gate area.
As with all medieval cities the north part of the old city had a gate that was expanded through the centuries and amazingly cars still drive through it. The gatehouse served as accommodations for guests and prisoners. It was time for tea so went to a small teahouse on the other side of town near the cathedral. The building itself must’ve been centuries old, easily Tudors. We sat upstairs and realized the building was leaning heavily to one side, so we leaned the opposite way. The rooms however were easy on the eye decoration wise and brightly colored. The waitress huff and puffed up the stairs to serve the tea, which had dust all over the service set! We laughed at it, wiped it off and enjoyed the experience. Another stop in a pub and a quick peak into the Canterbury Pottery to buy our obligatory tea set piece and we had less than an hour before our coach left for London.
It was about this time a metallic smelling fog rolled into the city. It was about 6pm so we figured the fog was natural and the smell of odd house fireplaces going. The cathedral was open to the public now so we stepped inside the grounds to take a look at the exterior of the building. The bells were going off for a while so I tried to record them; too many talking people around though. On the coach ride home we noticed the fog was all over the countryside and the sunset was a deep red, like a forest fire sunset in Los Angeles. Turns out it might have been smoke from the Icelandic volcano turning the sunset deep crimson.
It’s great to have these cheap yet culture-filled experiences, this is the main reason we came here. We’re very lucky to have the opportunity to do so. I never really guessed we’d be able to do something like this and actually manage a living.
Here are the same craptacular photos.
Tuesday, 13 April 2010
White Chalk
It was off to Victoria train station to catch an early morning coach down to the coastal town of Dover. For me this would be the first time in a while traveling on a coach, which to my recollection wasn’t too pleasant. The patrons at Victoria coach station had a sense of urgency but not an overwhelming manic crazed sense. The coaches were all lined up on a coach tarmac with eager passengers crowding to sit and wait. Thankfully the trip was less than two hours and it took us south through London, which was fun to watch.
The coach ride wasn’t bad at all and we were in Dover by 10am and dropped off a block from the B&B we were staying at. The B&B was a very large period house and very impressive inside and at the base of the hill Dover Castle sat upon. We dropped our bags off at the B&B, stepped outside, craned our necks upward towards Dover Castle and trekked up the “steep” side to the entrance.
Dover Castle is quite great; apparently it is one of English Heritage’s flagship sites so they’ve recently put some money into it. The site itself is quite large and contains the Norman keep with walls, church and defensive embattlements. The church is built right next to a partially standing Roman lighthouse and had a twin. The town of Dover is in a narrow valley, so if a tidal wave were to come it would funnel spectacularly into the town. The valley is cut into the chalk downs so there are “peaks” on either side of the town where the Romans built a lighthouse per side. The Dover Castle one is still standing.
It was a very windy and chilly day and being on top of the hill forced us inside the castle. Inside the castle was quite large and recently redecorated to early medieval standards. What was really nice about it was they had fires burning in all the large hearths. The smoky air permeated the cavernous rooms and halls making the experience all the more authentic. Surprisingly the fires made a considerable difference in the warmth of the rooms to where I took my jacket off. After a quick little sit down in a tiny, purple, stainglass-lit chapel we made our way down to the medieval tunnels of the perimeter defenses. These tunnels were dark, damp, and awesome! They helped defend the approach to the front gate and the mote and if I recall correctly they were used up until the 18th century. From there we strolled along the defensive mounded perimeter with the intent to take the tour of the WWII bunkers in the side of the hill. Along the mounded perimeter we came across a WWII era AA gun with the old Norman Keep towering over it in the distance. Obviously, this castle mount was used to defend and warn against impending Nazi attacks and invasion.
As we learned on the WWII tunnel/bunker tour they utilized 18th century tunnels or underground barracks (Casemates) from the Napoleonic Wars and in the 1940’s the government expanded the tunnels in order to house a HQ for the Normandy invasions (the Annexe). Unfortunately, there were no photos allowed but the tunnels were still decked out in vintage communication and computational equipment. The admiral’s personal rooms were in the white chalk right along the cliff face. We only saw a fraction of the original tunnels since a lot still has to be rediscovered and verified safe apparently. Overall, the tour wasn’t so much a tour as with a tour guide but more of a “guided” tour through amusement park like scenes where through props and audio playback a day in the life of the room was recreated. Nonetheless, quite fun.
Upon leaving the tours it was already near 4pm and we wanted to get over to the see the White Cliffs before the sun set since this was our only day in Dover. A local guide at the castle told us the easiest way was to descend down to the water front, walk along the “A” road and up into the National Trust Park. So we did, which took us down an old road lined with old haggard cottages, under an overpass and then up into the park. The park closed at 5pm but we were still able to roam around the grounds; which are quite extensive…in miles. We walked along one path that was about 8 feet wide with a sheer drop down to the shore bed…easily a few hundred feet. The sun was setting so it afforded me some photos of the White Cliffs, some long distance shots of France and a lovely walk along the down fields with a clear view of Dover Castle. Where of course we happened upon a cache. We could easily spend a day walking along the entire park.
Hunger was quickly becoming the dominant influence so we meandered off the hills and down to The White Horse pub, recommended by Marianne. The great thing about this pub is the writing on the wall. People who have swam the channel come here and write their names, time, date and route (E-F) on the walls. E-F meant England to France. The walls were filled. After a little dinner, another cache it was back to the B&B to pass out.
Here's all the photos.
The coach ride wasn’t bad at all and we were in Dover by 10am and dropped off a block from the B&B we were staying at. The B&B was a very large period house and very impressive inside and at the base of the hill Dover Castle sat upon. We dropped our bags off at the B&B, stepped outside, craned our necks upward towards Dover Castle and trekked up the “steep” side to the entrance.
Dover Castle is quite great; apparently it is one of English Heritage’s flagship sites so they’ve recently put some money into it. The site itself is quite large and contains the Norman keep with walls, church and defensive embattlements. The church is built right next to a partially standing Roman lighthouse and had a twin. The town of Dover is in a narrow valley, so if a tidal wave were to come it would funnel spectacularly into the town. The valley is cut into the chalk downs so there are “peaks” on either side of the town where the Romans built a lighthouse per side. The Dover Castle one is still standing.
It was a very windy and chilly day and being on top of the hill forced us inside the castle. Inside the castle was quite large and recently redecorated to early medieval standards. What was really nice about it was they had fires burning in all the large hearths. The smoky air permeated the cavernous rooms and halls making the experience all the more authentic. Surprisingly the fires made a considerable difference in the warmth of the rooms to where I took my jacket off. After a quick little sit down in a tiny, purple, stainglass-lit chapel we made our way down to the medieval tunnels of the perimeter defenses. These tunnels were dark, damp, and awesome! They helped defend the approach to the front gate and the mote and if I recall correctly they were used up until the 18th century. From there we strolled along the defensive mounded perimeter with the intent to take the tour of the WWII bunkers in the side of the hill. Along the mounded perimeter we came across a WWII era AA gun with the old Norman Keep towering over it in the distance. Obviously, this castle mount was used to defend and warn against impending Nazi attacks and invasion.
As we learned on the WWII tunnel/bunker tour they utilized 18th century tunnels or underground barracks (Casemates) from the Napoleonic Wars and in the 1940’s the government expanded the tunnels in order to house a HQ for the Normandy invasions (the Annexe). Unfortunately, there were no photos allowed but the tunnels were still decked out in vintage communication and computational equipment. The admiral’s personal rooms were in the white chalk right along the cliff face. We only saw a fraction of the original tunnels since a lot still has to be rediscovered and verified safe apparently. Overall, the tour wasn’t so much a tour as with a tour guide but more of a “guided” tour through amusement park like scenes where through props and audio playback a day in the life of the room was recreated. Nonetheless, quite fun.
Upon leaving the tours it was already near 4pm and we wanted to get over to the see the White Cliffs before the sun set since this was our only day in Dover. A local guide at the castle told us the easiest way was to descend down to the water front, walk along the “A” road and up into the National Trust Park. So we did, which took us down an old road lined with old haggard cottages, under an overpass and then up into the park. The park closed at 5pm but we were still able to roam around the grounds; which are quite extensive…in miles. We walked along one path that was about 8 feet wide with a sheer drop down to the shore bed…easily a few hundred feet. The sun was setting so it afforded me some photos of the White Cliffs, some long distance shots of France and a lovely walk along the down fields with a clear view of Dover Castle. Where of course we happened upon a cache. We could easily spend a day walking along the entire park.
Hunger was quickly becoming the dominant influence so we meandered off the hills and down to The White Horse pub, recommended by Marianne. The great thing about this pub is the writing on the wall. People who have swam the channel come here and write their names, time, date and route (E-F) on the walls. E-F meant England to France. The walls were filled. After a little dinner, another cache it was back to the B&B to pass out.
Here's all the photos.
Saturday, 3 April 2010
Thursday, 1 April 2010
Bath Birthday Bash
Matt presented my birthday present in the form of coordinates in my card. I immediately knew that I would have to hunt down a geocache to find my present. The coordinates led me to a park bench. Inside the container, there was an anagram. Finally, I figured out it – Thermae Bath Spa. Awesome! We had been there before on our honeymoon, but I know we’d both love to go back anytime and repeatedly! The only issue was that Matt was on a project, so we had to postpone the trip until the end of the month.
It was well worth the wait. We took the train into Bath from London in the afternoon, arriving at our hotel around 1.30pm. The room was fantastic; truly a Georgian room fit for any loyal Jane Austen fan (because Matt loves me). Even the tea tray came with complimentary Sherry (I would have prefered Rum Punch, but I make do). After we settled our luggage, we opted for a little walk about before heading to the spa. We stopped into a lovely, but teeny-tiny tea shop and picked up a cup and saucer as our Bath souvenir. Now off to Thermae Spa!
It was well worth the wait. We took the train into Bath from London in the afternoon, arriving at our hotel around 1.30pm. The room was fantastic; truly a Georgian room fit for any loyal Jane Austen fan (because Matt loves me). Even the tea tray came with complimentary Sherry (I would have prefered Rum Punch, but I make do). After we settled our luggage, we opted for a little walk about before heading to the spa. We stopped into a lovely, but teeny-tiny tea shop and picked up a cup and saucer as our Bath souvenir. Now off to Thermae Spa!
Matt booked a lovely couples package including a very interesting session in a Kraxen stove, a couples massage, dinner, and a 4-hour “spa session.” The Kraxen stove was certainly something I hadn’t seen before; basically an apsidal-shaped pod just big enough for one person, lined with mesh bags filled with hay and chamomile. We were to each sit in our own pod, having been “sealed” in by the attendant, and enjoy the steam which seeped through the hay. It was different, but very relaxing and very effective. After our treatment, we relaxed with some herbal tea, then made our way to our massage. This was, of course, also very enjoyable and relaxing. I remember looking over at Matt as we were sitting with our tea and he had such a relaxed, contented smile on his face; I’ll never forget it. The pools and steamrooms in the spa are all supplied by the natural hot springs in the area. In fact, this would be the same hot spring that supplied the Romans with their baths, Aqua Sulis. With that added to the mindset, it is quite an experience to “take in the waters.” For dinner, I opted for the pheasant and I have to say it was an experience for me. If done again, I will definitely request a sharper knife and make sure I have plenty of time to avoid any possible pellets (from killing the poor bird). It was still hard to leave the lap of luxury even after our nearly 6-hour stay. Ahhhhh…. Unfortunately, we were both still a little hungry after our session, so we hopped into a Thai restaurant for some relatively healthy food. ‘Twas very yummy.
The next morning, we ate our full English breakfast (eggs, fried mushrooms, baked beans, bacon, sausage, tomato), packed up our things, and headed to Enterprise. Today, we were going off to explore the nearby countryside and Stonehenge. It just happened to be a beautiful, sunny day and the drive was fantastic. Stonehenge is pretty hard to miss, especially being wedged between two main highways. Despite the throng of people at the site, it was pretty easy to be amazed and captivated by the sheer size and positions of the stones. The audio tour was, as you may have guessed, very educational. Overall, the stones seem to be an ancient calendar of sorts; light coming through different arches and shining on different stones at significant times of the year. While we were there, we decided to purchase an English Heritage membership. This gets us into something like 400 sights across the country. We thought it was a good deal. It also meant we could get into two more nearby sites. We set off immediately…
The next morning, we ate our full English breakfast (eggs, fried mushrooms, baked beans, bacon, sausage, tomato), packed up our things, and headed to Enterprise. Today, we were going off to explore the nearby countryside and Stonehenge. It just happened to be a beautiful, sunny day and the drive was fantastic. Stonehenge is pretty hard to miss, especially being wedged between two main highways. Despite the throng of people at the site, it was pretty easy to be amazed and captivated by the sheer size and positions of the stones. The audio tour was, as you may have guessed, very educational. Overall, the stones seem to be an ancient calendar of sorts; light coming through different arches and shining on different stones at significant times of the year. While we were there, we decided to purchase an English Heritage membership. This gets us into something like 400 sights across the country. We thought it was a good deal. It also meant we could get into two more nearby sites. We set off immediately…
Our next stop was “Old Sarum,” the precursor to Salisbury town and fortress built by William the Conqueror. It was very interesting to see what still existed at the top of this clearly marked hilltop fortress. We spent about an hour or so examining the flint core remains of the major buildings (the Tower, Great Hall, Palace chapel, and Royal toilets). One of the more interesting parts was the Cathedral foundation outside the fortress walls. What we see today has been there since they dismantled the building... in the 12oos! It pretty surprising even that much is left.
The last stop for the day was “Old Wardour Castle” (apparently, there’s a “New Wardour Castle”). The claim to fame for this castle, besides being a noble residence built in the 14th century with cutting edge architectural designs, is that it was used as Locksley castle in Robin Hood: Prince of Thieves. Not to demonstrate my geeky side, but I knew exactly what scenes were shot here. I think Matt was both impressed and disappointed. Unfortunately, we didn’t have time to listen to all the details provided on the audio tour since we had to get the car back. Of course, not without getting in a geocache… This one proved a bit difficult, but we succeeded. Matt then drove like the wind to get the car back on time. No minutes to spare.
For us, no trip is complete without a stop into a pub. We walked right into the most localist of local pubs, even being accosted by a local who laughed and said, “You’re in the wrong place. This pub is for locals.” Luckily, he followed this up by jokingly pushing some people aside and making a space for us. We enjoyed watching them banter back and forth, swearing, arguing, and then shaking hands at the end. Perfect end to a perfect trip. The train ride back was not so perfect. I was already a little annoyed at not being able to find another cache, but I was not expecting to be delayed by yet another person on the tube tracks... this one right in front of us! Just as we were pulling into a tube station to make a transfer, the train stopped and wouldn’t let us out. Apparently, there was someone on the tracks in front of our train… right there! Matt and I waited as we watched two of our possible transfer trains run past. Eventually, they removed the unharmed person from the tracks and we were allowed off. We finally made it home around 1am. What a way to remember a milestone birthday! Certainly, I will always remember that all the fantastic bits were because of my fabulous husband who put so much time and thought into planning it. You’re the best, baby!
For pictures from this trip, click here!
For us, no trip is complete without a stop into a pub. We walked right into the most localist of local pubs, even being accosted by a local who laughed and said, “You’re in the wrong place. This pub is for locals.” Luckily, he followed this up by jokingly pushing some people aside and making a space for us. We enjoyed watching them banter back and forth, swearing, arguing, and then shaking hands at the end. Perfect end to a perfect trip. The train ride back was not so perfect. I was already a little annoyed at not being able to find another cache, but I was not expecting to be delayed by yet another person on the tube tracks... this one right in front of us! Just as we were pulling into a tube station to make a transfer, the train stopped and wouldn’t let us out. Apparently, there was someone on the tracks in front of our train… right there! Matt and I waited as we watched two of our possible transfer trains run past. Eventually, they removed the unharmed person from the tracks and we were allowed off. We finally made it home around 1am. What a way to remember a milestone birthday! Certainly, I will always remember that all the fantastic bits were because of my fabulous husband who put so much time and thought into planning it. You’re the best, baby!
For pictures from this trip, click here!
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